All our models have a Natural Geometric™ chambering. It means that there are 20mm deep holes in the body.
Tonal Characteristics: Expressed mids and more bite on the bass side.
Specs & Options
All you need to know
Tech-stuff
All you need to know
OD NG™ Design
You can choose between OD’s Standard design or Wings design
NG™ Inlay
The NG™ is inlayed in another wood type, usually the same wood of the body in order to create contrast with the top.
Available on Venus, Rhea, and Cytherea.
Reversed VS Standard
A reversed headstock creates a greater tension on the thicker strings, which improves the sound and fits better for more than 6 string guitar or lower tuning (multiscale)
Headstock Designs
Each model has its own unique headstock design. You can choose to combine a certain body with another model’s headstock. When submitting an order form just select the specific headstock you would like.
Multi-scale, also known as fanned-fret
Is it right for you?
Probably is, I’ve come across 2-5 people who said it’s not for them in my whole career, it’s very comfortable to get used to, takes about 3-10 min tops for guitar players on every level.
What makes a good multiscale?
The perpendicular fret (also known as natural fret) position is highly important, that will determine how extreme the first or the last frets would be and can alter your whole experience and opinions about multiscale guitars.
Other than being a cool looking guitar, it has an important role in playing and tuning.
- Tuning
We all know that feeling of a floppy string followed by a muddy tone when it comes to low tuning. Having a long scale allows you to use your standard string gauges instead of a 1/4 inch cable and still achieve a tight tone without losing tension. - Intonation
nothing to do with it! Every instrument should be set to the right intonation regardless of how it is built (fan fret or not). - Playability
The differences between the longer and the shorter scales create the fan frets angles which allow your hand to rest in its natural position on the fretboard, without the need to stretch those tiny fingers all over the fretboard.
The Perpendicular fret is between 8-9th so you’ll get full access to all the frets without the need to stretch out your Yoga exercises all over the fretboard. - Hardware
I use the Bare-knuckle slanted pickups with a 10 degrees angle on the base plate. Single String Bridge, that way, I can adjust the position of each string in the best manner.
Recommended Scales
Perpendicular fret (natural fret) 9th
- 6 strings
25.5″-26.5″
25.5″-27″ - 7 strings
25.5″-27.5″
25.5″-27″ - 8 strings
26″-28″
You can ask for different values
Measurements (in mm)
| Strings | Nut width | 24th fret | Bridge saddle spacings |
| 6 | 43 | 58 | 53.4 |
| 7 | 48 | 68 | 63 |
| 8 | 57 | 78 | 75 |
Measurements (in inches)
| Strings | Nut width | 24th fret | Bridge saddle spacings |
| 6 | 1.7 | 2 .3 | 2.1 |
| 7 | 1.9 | 2.7 | 2.5 |
| 8 | 2.2 | 3 | 2.9 |
Mostly made from Ebony or Maple, Sometimes other exotic woods. Some woods are darker, some lighter, and each has its own qualities and properties, on the quest for your desired tone, I’ll help you choose the right one for your needs.
Front Markers
Luminlay Front Markers
Side markers
Glow in the dark side dots is standard for an OD guitar. Different options available.
Binding
Using a different wood for the edges of the fretboard, creates a unique look. This is purely esthetic, the fret tangs will be hidden from the edges in either way
Blind Slots
You deserve a comfortable neck in your hand, a fretboard with blind fret slots keeps the fret ends inside the wood. If you have read what I wrote on tone wood, then you must know by now that wood moves and changes over the years, which can cause the frets to pop out from the sides and cut your gentle hands, we don’t want that. Also, it looks better than a fretboard with fret ends on its sides.
I choose the neck pieces based on the sound we want to achieve and the different specs combinations in a specific project.
Neckpieces wood types are always written from left to right when the last piece written is the middle piece of the neck.
The first wood written is the 2 main pieces of the neck, which is also the last piece.
Over the years, I’ve experimented with several hardware, different ideas and manufacturers. My credo is that good hardware should carry the minimum components possible, the more components, the more chance for vibrations, problems and issues later-on. When we are looking at a guitar in this price range, there is no cheap hardware.
Tuners
What do we players hate? Changing strings…
If there’s something to make your life easier, I’ll use it, that is locking tuners. Every tuner comes with OD’s NG button design.
Pickups
I use Bare Knuckles Pickups as my go-to pickups, the owner of the company is a long-lasting guitar player and guitar tech for some of the big names, it’s a boutique company with people who understand sound and know sound in and out.
You can add OD’s custom wooden covers.
Nut
I use bone, it is a denser, stronger, more durable material and is naturally greasy. It doesn’t break strings, it rings better than everything else I’ve tried. If you don’t want to have animal material in your guitar, let me know, I can use TUSQ material which is synthetic.
Bridge
OD Mono-rail bridge
For multiscale guitars I designed my own custom made top – mounted single – string bridges, Since they accommodate each scale individually for each string on the guitar.
Read more >>
Fixed:
For standard scale, I use a fixed bridge with string through body mount.
Tremolos and floating bridges:
Only for standard scales, I’ll choose the right bridge for the intended project. Although it’s been done in the past, the multiscale floating bridge design is not problems – free, and therefore I prefer not to use it.
Electronics
Only silver covered or copper wires. My method of using thick copper wires keeps everything in place, nothing moves and get shorted by mistake. On top of that, it looks clean and nice.
Front Colors
Natural vs Mid Burst
Hard cut vs Fade to black body
Mid burst: dying the middle of the top with any color you’d like, leaving the edges and rest of the guitar natural. It works best for Walnuts, Ziricote, PME, and every dark wood out there. Pale moon ebony and Buckeye burl can get some colors, but not all of them.
Natural finish: Natural finish is leaving the wood natural color and grain, apply only clear coat.
Hard cut vs Fade: Hard cut will have a sharp edges defined by the color you’ll choose whereas fade will have the color fading unto the edges of the body transferring to another color or natural.
Back Colors
Natural Back vs Black body
Hard cut vs Fade to Black Back
These are the standard options to choose from, however, if you have any other ideas in terms of color and finish, don’t hesitate to let us know and we’ll try to figure it out together.
Things I don’t do:
Solid colors: the reason for that is that we don’t wish to cover the instrument with lacquer and grain sealer, seal the wood completely and loose its quality in tone, a thick layer of lacquer and sealer will dampen the sound, might as well build a guitar out of plastic, LOL Sparkles: just don’t (same reason).
Mirror gloss finish: you can ask for semi-gloss finish, again, In order to do a full mirror gloss, we need to apply a thick coat of sealer which we don’t want to do. Oil finish: I just don’t use it.
